How to Upgrade Your NFL Blitz Arcade1Up Control Deck with LED Buttons

Why upgrade your NFL Blitz Arcade1Up control deck with LEDs?

Adding LED buttons to your Arcade1Up control deck transforms the look and visibility of the cabinet, especially in dim game rooms or arcades. Besides aesthetics, LED buttons also help players quickly identify key controls, add tournament-style flair, and keep a retro machine feeling fresh without changing the installed game board.

Who this guide is for

This walkthrough is written for Arcade1Up owners comfortable using basic hand tools and following clear wiring instructions. You don’t need advanced electronics skills, but a little patience and attention to polarity and power will make the install smooth and reliable.

What’s included in a typical LED control deck kit

Your upgrade kit will usually include the LED buttons themselves plus the wiring and adapters that simplify installation. For the kit compatible with the NFL Blitz Arcade1Up you can expect:

• 17 x 12V LED buttons (several color options available)
• 1 x extra long LED wiring harness
• 6 x 18" LED jumper wires and 11 x 12" LED jumper wires
• 1 x 2-way power splitter cable
• 4 x crystal bat tops

Because the kit uses 12V LED buttons, the installation is generally plug-and-play for Arcade1Up boards when using the correct harness and power source.

Compatibility and power: what to check before you buy

Before starting, verify your machine is the NFL Blitz Arcade1Up revision that uses the standard Arcade1Up control deck layout. The LED kit is designed to work with the installed game board; it does not replace the game electronics. Important considerations:

• Voltage: The buttons are 12V LED buttons. Confirm your cabinet can provide a 12V feed or that the kit includes an adapter/splitter to share power safely.
• Power switch wiring: If your machine uses a 2-wire power switch, you can power off the lights with the machine’s A1U power switch (many owners call this the "A1U Power Switch Hack"). If your machine has a 3-wire power switch, use an inline switch for the LED feed to control lights separately.
• Space and holes: The kit is made to fit Arcade1Up button holes, but double-check the layout and bat-top fit for the baseball-style bat tops included.

Tools and supplies you’ll need

• Philips and flathead screwdrivers
• Needle-nose pliers or small wire cutters
• Electrical tape or heat-shrink tubing
• Small socket or wrench set (if your panel uses nuts for buttons)
• Optional: multimeter to verify 12V and polarity before connecting

Step-by-step installation

1. Power down and prepare

Unplug the cabinet from AC power. Remove the control panel according to Arcade1Up instructions — usually a few screws and the hinge will let you lift the deck. Keep track of screws and hardware so nothing gets lost.

2. Remove the existing buttons

Carefully unfasten the existing buttons. With stock wiring, each microswitch plug is usually easy to unplug from the harness. Note or photograph the wiring layout and button functions so you can map the new LED buttons to the correct microswitches.

3. Install the LED buttons and bat tops

Insert the LED buttons into the control panel holes. Many LED buttons are threaded and secure with a metal nut — finger-tighten first and then use a wrench for a snug fit. Add the crystal bat tops on the face of player one and player two where appropriate. Confirm the button orientation so the LED lens is centered.

4. Wiring the LED harness

The kit’s extra long wiring harness and jumpers make routing simple. Follow these general wiring rules:

• LED buttons typically have two terminals for power (12V and ground) for the light and a separate pair for the microswitch that connects to the game board.
• Keep the LED power wiring separate from the microswitch wiring; the microswitch lines should be plugged into the existing controller harness so the game recognizes button presses as before.
• Use the included jumper wires to route 12V to each LED. The 2-way power splitter helps feed both player sides from a single 12V source.

If you have a multimeter, verify the harness 12V feed before connecting every LED string. Polarity matters for most LED setups: connect positive 12V to the LED’s + terminal and ground to the - terminal.

5. Connecting to the cabinet power

Decide how you want the lights switched. If you want the LED lights to turn off when you flip the machine power off and your machine uses a 2-wire switch, you can route the kit through that same switched feed. For machines with a 3-wire switch, use a separate inline switch on the LED feed so the main cabinet power still controls the game board while you control the lights independently.

6. Test before final reassembly

1. Plug the cabinet back in but keep the control deck open so you can observe wiring.
2. Power the cabinet on and verify that each LED lights up and each button still registers in the game.
3. If lights don’t come on, immediately power down and re-check connections, polarity, and that the splitter is seated correctly.

Where to place the product in your workflow

After you’ve read the steps above and gathered your tools, the easiest path is to unpack the kit, lay out the wiring harness, and follow the order: remove old buttons → mount new buttons → connect microswitches → connect LED power harness → test → reassemble.

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Post-installation tips and customization ideas

• Color mapping: Use different colors for player 1 vs player 2, or assign bright colors to frequently used buttons (start, pass, tackle) to improve visibility during intense matches.
• Brightness control: If the LEDs are too bright, you can add inline resistors or a small dimmer module on the 12V feed — test carefully to avoid changing button behavior or overloading the supply.
• Labeling: Consider subtle labels around the buttons or a thin vinyl overlay to keep a clean look while clarifying functions for new players.

Troubleshooting common issues

• No lights at all: Verify the 12V source is present and that the splitter is connected correctly. Use a multimeter to check for voltage at the harness connector.
• Some LEDs don’t light: Check individual jumper wires and the LED positive/negative orientation. Swap a known-good LED into the same position to isolate a button vs. harness issue.
• Buttons don’t register in-game: Ensure the microswitch leads are reattached to the same game board connections. The LED lighting circuit is separate from the microswitch circuit.
• Lights stay on when machine is off: This typically means the LED feed is connected to an unswitched 12V source. Re-route through the A1U power switch or add the inline switch if preferred.

Maintenance and long-term care

LED buttons are low-maintenance but check connections annually, especially if you notice flicker or intermittent behavior. Keep wiring tidy with zip ties and avoid sharp bends. If you ever need to replace an LED button, keep the same 12V rating to ensure compatibility.

Conclusion

Upgrading your NFL Blitz Arcade1Up control deck with a 12V LED kit is one of the highest-impact mods you can do for both aesthetics and playability. With basic tools and careful attention to wiring and power, you can complete the swap in an afternoon and enjoy a brighter, more responsive control panel that stands out in any game room. If you want a ready-made kit that includes buttons, jumpers, splitters, and bat tops to simplify the job, the kit outlined above gives you everything you need to get started.